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History and tradition sweeten the maple harvest at Groundhog Road Farms

Five white men with beards in ball caps, plaid, and long sleeved t-shirt stand in front of large shiny metal equipment.

A few members of the Maple Syrup Division Crew of Groundhog Road Farms pose in front of the maple syrup evaporator in February of 2024. From left to right: Sam Miller, Jim Diehl, Mark Miller, Ed Miller and Ben Ooley (Kayte Young/WFIU)

This week on the show we head out to Groundhog Road Maple Farm to learn all about the family business that dates back to the eighteen eighties. Ed Miller and his friends and family have modernized the operation in recent years. We’ll learn how the syrup gets from the maple tree in the forest to the pancakes on your plate.

several white men with beards in a barn-type room with equipment, and a station where brown liquid is going into jars
Maple season at Groundhog Road Farms is a time for family and friends to get together, and bottling day is a flurry of activity.(Kayte Young/WFIU)

The Miller Family moved to their farm in Bedford Indiana in 1880. Ed Miller says that from the beginning, his family harvested maple sap from their trees every year, and processed it into syrup, 

“Everybody made syrup back then...anything you could do to make some income, that's what they did," Ed told me, especially during the depression.

Once they got into farming cattle, hogs and row crops, they didn’t have much time for maple syrup. Around the time when Ed was leaving home, they let it go. 

When Ed and his siblings got older and had families of their own, they decided to revive the sugar camp as a wintertime activity for the kids, and to bring the family together.

an outbuilding piled with neatly stack fire wood. Big enough to drive though, wood stacked on both sides.
The Millers like to stay about 2 years ahead on wood needed to run the wood-fired maple syrup evaporator. The fluxuating temperatures that result from using wood fuel cause a particular kind of caramelization that improves the flavor of the syrup. (Kayte Young/WFIU)

 

Bearded man with ball cap and leather gloves loading logs into an oven or wood stove
Mark Miller loads wood into the evaporator oven at Groundhog Road Farms in Bedford, Indiana.

Now Ed and his brothers and sisters are the elders in the family. They’re still running the sugar camp. They’ve upgraded the building and equipment, and they even get inspected by the health department, so they can sell their syrup commercially. 

Forest in winter with white tubing running from tree to tree
The sap is pulled from the maple trees with a vacuum pump and travels through this complex web of tubing in the woods. (Kayte Young/WFIU)

The sap gathering has shifted from buckets hanging on tree trunks to a complex web of plastic tubing running on tensile wires throughout the forest and a vacuum pump that pulls the sap faster than gravity would.

Sometimes those lines get holes in them–usually from squirrels. 

“Our younger generation, and mainly the girls, have got hearing, and they can hear that high frequency squeals that that vacuum puts off, and man, they can just go in the woods and start finding ‘em and you just cut that out put a connector in, put another one in and they can just run through the woods fixin’ holes. Older guys that can’t hear, you’re a strugglin’ trying to find ‘em,” Ed laughs. 

I really love that image of girls traipsing through the woods finding the leaks and tagging them, or perhaps repairing the lines themselves. It really speaks to the-all-hands-on deck nature of the syrup season out at the Miller family farm, and the joy that the maple harvest brings to everyone involved. 

You can hear all about it in this week’s episode.

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