One Size Doesn't Fit All

It's easy to forget that each vegetable has its own beautiful chemistry, which responds differently to heat, pressure, steam and oil. By customizing her cooking strategies on a case-by-case basis to bring out the best in every food, Molly Katzen challenged my boring steam-and-saute rituals with her book, The Vegetable Dishes I Couldn't Live Without.

It's been a real game-changer in my kitchen.

Prepared with sensitivity to its unique personality, this garlic, red pepper and sesame-infused baby bok choy is delicious with pasta or, as served here, atop fresh bean curd swimming in homemade dashi broth.