A Moment of Science
No matter when you go to the beach, the waves are rolling in. The ocean doesn’t seem to take a break. What’s causing that? Learn more on this Moment of Science.
Ordinary ocean waves are caused by the action of wind, like ripples on a wind-blown pond. Even the impressive surf of the Pacific got its start as wind blowing across the open water. The height of such waves depends on how fast the wind is blowing, and how much open water the wind travels across.
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